Tuesday 23 May 2017

Galapagos to Guayaquil, Ecuador. 22nd May 2017


Monday 22nd May 2017

Galapagos to Guayaquil

Up early for lovely breakfast – home-made carrot cake, fresh tree-tomato smoothie, banana/watermelon/orange sections, scrambled egg/cheese. Joseline had sorted a taxi and we paid extra for the driver to take us over the Itacama channel ferry and to the airport with all our baggage. $42. However had to pay $20 excess due to weight of our now 3x bags. Annoyingly our backpacks were light and we could have just moved some gear across and paid less – all going in the same plane! I was then paged in the airport and had to go air-side as they had identified ‘rock’ in my suitcase and couldn’t access the combination lock.  It was the salt crystals from Uyuni and therefore OK, but interesting that they had detected them and we so hot on not removing anything from the islands.  Plane was also delayed by an hour for no apparent reason.  It all happens in 3’s!  We weren’t bothered as had no linked flights.

Once in Guayaquil, took a taxi to Casa del Rio Guayas which was very near the airport. Nice basic room with most amenities, including wifi. Re-packed some items to reduce the weight and rethinking our outfits (shorts and T-shirts to hiking boots and fleeces!).  Took a taxi into town for $4 – very confused driver who couldn’t work out where the tourist area should be. Ended up alongside the river with a very modern waterfront. It had all the amenities – imax cinema, theatres, boardwalk, big wheel, parks.  As it was getting dark we found a nice restaurant where Iain had seafood mixed in rice and an additional full crab alongside! I had seafood linguine.  Very nice, washed down with Marguerita cocktails. We then grabbed another taxi for our return, who became very confused with the hotel card, his own app and Iain’s e-maps. Eventually found the hotel with great relief and still only charged $4. Good taxis here.

Caught up with blog – finally up to date after two weeks, but photos still to do. Will try when we’re waiting at airports!

Relax day. Tortuga Bay. 21st May 2017


Sunday 21st May 2017

Tortuga Bay

First day when we don’t have to get up early and do anything.  Bliss! Leisurely breakfast and spent the morning using their decent wifi updating about 2x weeks of blog. Later found that cost them $480USD per month for internet (Max 512 KBPS/Min 256 KBPS).

Walked through town, revisiting the fish stall (closed) which still had three sealion asleep underneath in hopeful anticipation.  Marine Iguana were littering the pavement for some unknown reason. Quick lunch.

Walked to Tortuga Bay which was about 2.5km away with a loooong path running to the beach. It was worth the effort though – a massive talcum-powder soft sandy beach with turquoise sea and crashing surf. Some brave souls were in the water, against the wishes of the red flag flying, so I just paddled. Iain took loads of pictures. Met up with the Belgian brothers again for a quick chat – they had already walked up a volcano since the live-aboard.

Back to Puerto Ayora for gin/tonic happy hour. Waited for Diane and Terry while Iain returned to pack. Quick catch up then big adios – then there were Two.

Packing for return trip. Groan.

Scuba Diving - Beagle Rock/ Daphne Minor. 20th May 2017


Saturday 20th May 2017

Beagle Rock/ Daphne Minor

Diving with Scuba Iguana

Repeat of yesterday with briefing and transfer to Baltra. Waves slightly less but still choppy.

First dive Beagle Rock – saw white-tipped reef shark, Galapagos shark mid-water – again indicated to hang on to rock, Scorpion fish.  Visibility slightly less – about 6metres.

Second dive Daphne Minor – this time I took Roberto with us in my stab jacket. Quike our dive master pointed out a cave with white-tipped reed shark lying on floor outside. He took my go-pro and went into the cave where there were about another 5x shark sheltering. In doing so, he disturbed them and they came charging out only feet from us, then kept cruising up and down the reef past us. Saw some very small blue nudibranch on the coral. Went through a thermocline and temperature dropped from 25 deg down to 22 deg, so started to feel cold even with the full wetsuit.

Lunch on the way back was ceviche, rice and plantain chips. Odd but nice.

On our return, bought Tshirts, and a better video of yesterday’s dive (note: need a flash or torch to get decent underwater shots, go-pro good for video only, or snorkelling).

Started to rain for the first time in the Galapagos, and back late from scuba, so we just relaxed in our room. Went out for a half pizza each and a beer, quite late. Most of the places were closing (unlike Argentina when it would just be warming up to start eating!).

Scuba Diving Mosquera/Seymoor El Canal, Galapagos. 19th May 2017


Friday 19th May 2017

Mosquera/Seymoor El Canal, Galapagos

Diving with Scuba Iguana

Very good briefing, then efficient transfer via taxis to Baltra channel. Dive boat waiting with 3x dive masters for 10x people (2x doing open water course). Sebastian our dive master.  Took Iain and crew to bounce me into a 7mm full wet suit which took ages. All of us completely dressed and sorted by the crew – only thing we had to do for ourselves was put on a mask and backward roll from boat.  Visibility not great due to changes in current and Humboult affect – down to about 7 metres. 

First dive Mosquera – became surrounded by Galapagos shark bigger than me, circling us. Sebastian motioned for us all to stay together (making us look like one huge inedible fish!) and hold on to the rocks.  Some good go-pro footage taken.  Interesting field of garden eels like long fingers sticking up from the sand. As we approached they slowly pulled back into the sand.  Nice Golden Ray and lots of trumpet fish, as well as large colourful starfish. 

Second dive Seymoor El Canal.  Water temperature a bit warmer – 24degrees.  Saw my first Hammerhead Shark, so very happy. Lots of white-tipped reef shark relaxing on the sandy bottom, two moray eel (one about 30cm width), sting ray and an interesting cleaning station with Angel Fish nibbling the parasites off the big fish queuing for attention.

Very difficult waves at end of dives so I gave my BCD to the crew to assist getting up the ladder. Both dives about one hour long. On way back we were served a tray of chicken, rice and green beans which we had to eat with a fork. Very choppy seas.

Met up in evening with Ed and Jude, Diane and Terry. Returned to the blocked-off road and this time had red scorpion fish – 1x fish between 2x people due to their size. Ours was stuffed with vegetables and herbs and steamed. The others had theirs roasted on the BBQ. This time the service was very slow and ad hoc, so we ended up in a bar and had some Caipirinhas with Ed and Jude to end our tour together the way we had started in Rio!

Bye byes but will see them again in December!

Black Turtle Cove/ Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island. End of cruise. 18th May 2017


Thursday 18th May 2017

Black Turtle Cove/ Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island

Up very early to visit the cove, located in a small mangrove lagoon. It is a nursery site for many marine species and we saw sharks, spotted eagle rays and sting rays, and sea turtle. We went off in two zodiacs, quietly puttering around, and sometimes turning the engine off and paddling through mangroves.  Lots of birds – finches and pelicans in particular.   Very peaceful.

Unfortunately had to return to the Penguino Explorer, where we had breakfast and then turfed out our bags. Disembarked at Canal de Itabaca, saying our farewells to Gunna, Pete and Brenda who were flying out. Not a ‘tears and snotters’ do this time – will see them all again soon! 

Took taxi for $25 down to Puerto Ayora and booked in to the Hotel Galapagos Suites. Best room to date – clean, well-built, all facilities, massive king-size bed and Joseline the host.   

Walked the short distance down to Scuba Iguana and were fitted out with 5-7mm full wet suits – lost about 2 lbs just trying it on in the changing rooms!  Sorted out our kit for diving tomorrow, and collected our two suitcases which they had kindly looked after.

Unpacked our gear, then wandered back to the beach for a quick swim. Exceedingly hot, so only stayed about an hour in the shade of a tree.

 Meet Ed and Jude, Diane and Terry for some evening cocktails in happy hour. Then tried out a street which had been blocked off and all the tables and chairs placed in the strip of road. We all had slipper lobster/langoustines – good size and lots of meat, with rice, salad and plantains. Yummy.

Sunday 21 May 2017

Santa Fe Island/ South Plazas. Giant cactus/Bird fest/Sealion. 17th May 2017


Wednesday 17th May 2017

Up early with breakfast 6.30am.

Woke in Santa Fe Island, in a small bay. Transferred onto the sandy bay for a wet landing in the middle of about 20x sealion, all sleeping near the surf. Spent some time there just watching them relax, some suckling their not-so young. Went for a walk through an unusual prickly pear cactus forest and saw plenty of Santa Fe Land Iguanas, which again didn’t seem to take much notice of us. With those and the Frigate birds, it was like walking in Jurassic Park.  A few Mockingbirds also followed us around the tracks. Saw the tree-like giant Cactus Opuntia, which has formed a tree-like trunk full of a sponge-like centre.

Back to the beach to sit with the sealion for a while, then back on board to collect snorkelling gear. Snorkelled around the bay and spotted a white-tipped reef shark that went under some rocks, never to appear again, a large Galapagos Shark that zoomed past, Barranco and shoals of pretty fish (including a disco-light fish!).  Took some close-ups of a couple of sleepy sealion, who were happy to pose but weren’t very active. Sadly our last snorkel with the sealions.

Back to boat for a hot chocolate. Navigated to Plazas Island.

Lunch

Dry land visit to South Plazas, an uplifted island, like Baltra, highly populated by sea lions.  Over 1000 inhabit the island residing in 10 harems each one attended by a male. Covered with vegetation of Opuntia Cactuses and sesuvium/Tiquila plants. We walked along the cliffs to see petrels, swallow-tailed gulls, red-billed tropic birds and tried not to step on the Land Iguanas.

Navigation back to Itabaca Channel between Santa Cruz and Baltra.

Dinner and pack bags ready for transfer tomorrow.

San Cristobal Island. Snorkelling with sealions. 16th May 2017


Tuesday 16th May 2017

San Cristobal Island

Woke up in the bay of the capital, San Cristobal.  This didn’t seem as large or as busy as Puerto Ayora. Again, sealions lined the bay and lay all over the landing pontoons, as well as any abandoned boats in the bay.  We all got into taxis and drove about 15 mins up the coast to a snorkelling area off a reef-protected beach.  It was only about 8am and I still was clean and cool, so didn’t go snorkelling in what appeared to be a choppy bay.  Instead I watched the seals and chilled out.  Took a video of Pete and Brenda mucking about with a baby seal who was using them for entertainment, and splashing them and performing acrobatics. Fabulous.

Taxis back to town where Judy and I bought a few bits – ‘I love Boobies’ baseball hats and some Galapagos T-shirts and postcards.  Postcards only $1, but stamps $3.50 each! Judy bought some rum for a sundowner. Joined the gang who had already started on the beers and joined them in an ice-cold bottle. Yum. Had a brief internet connection at the cafĂ© – about 10mins to catch up on emails and download facebook – before we had to leave.

Back for lunch – soup, pieces of beef, plantains, rice, tomatoes/basil/mozzarrela and fruit salad.

Afternoon we went for a walk through Lobos Island, famous for its population of sea lions and fur sea lions. Also nesting ground for the great frigate bird and a small number of blue footed boobies. Very rocky terrain, with huge boulders which were part of the so-called path. Luckily we’d brought our hiking poles which helped keep the balance. Definitely not a place accessible by disabled and Brian did a sterling job with his bad leg and crutches!

Snorkelling was the best ever.  The group moved on and Iain and I were left with a few very playful sealion pups who wanted to show off.  We ended up mimicking each others’ moves, swimming on backs, duck diving and changing direction. They were so friendly, swimming right at us, then just avoiding, or looking into the go-pro. Obtained some fabulous footage, which went on for about half hour.  Finally were told to get back on the zodiacs, which we did reluctantly. As we left the sealions jumped out of the water. I like to think it was in farewell.

Back to boat for some well-deserved sundowners.

Very choppy seas while we transferred islands. Iain was downloading photos and videos until midnight, so what with that, the aircon not on, lights shining and sea-swell, I didn’t get to sleep till gone 1230.

Espanola Island, Galapagos. Animal Paradise. 15th May 2017


Monday 15th May 2017

Espanola Island - The southernmost island with the densest and most diversified concentration of wildlife.

Early start for dry land visit to Punta Suarez. Three hour walk along the beach initially then some very treacherous volcanic rock paths.  The landing point was littered with Galapagos Sea Lion, nicely disguised among the rocks. Also swarming with red Sally Lightfoot crabs. Then numerous marine iguana with their unique copper-red patches, some as many as 20x piled on top of each other, starting to warm up. Also welcomed by Mockingbirds who showed no fear whatsoeEver. They were coming right up to us (and pecked Roberto), probably to beg for fresh water. We were warned that however kind it may seem, we shouldn’t change their habits and allow them to rely on tourists for water.  Another bird was the Nazca Booby which used to be called the Inca Booby, which looked like it was wearing a mask.  As we continued towards a high cliff area, we came across numerous Waved Albatross, some with eggs in ground nests. One pair were nested right on the path but seemed to accept people walking past just feet away.  We were also treated to a display by the Galapagos Hawk who used the cliff thermals to buzz past us on a few occasions.  At the cliff side was Soplador, a blow hole which erupted up to 10 metres when the wave was high enough.  At all the sites we just wanted to wait and watch, there was so much activity on air, sea and land going on.

After 3 hours we finally returned to the boat and had a mango juice on arrival. After a short break, lunch was served – a whole fish Bacherale?? – an ugly sucker with big teeth and larger lower jaw - which had nice white meaty flesh.  Served with asparagus, palm hearts and artichokes/olives, plus rice. Weird blancmange pud to finish.

A quick siesta ensued, then at 2pm off to Bahia Garden/Gardener Bay, a pristine white soft sand beach with low scrub backdrop. We stayed on the beach and watched about 50x sea lions with their young, all stretched out and sunning themselves, fast asleep.  Two pups were suckling from their mothers, and one appeared lost, going up to different seals and getting short shrift.  A photographer’s paradise, with the stunning turquoise sea behind.  Went for a dip to cool off, but nothing much to see with the sandy floor.

Then back to the zodiacs and transferred to a snorkelling area.  Dropped in to the water three times, and luckily took my go-pro. Firstly saw some sealions who had finally woken up enough to play in the water.  Followed a few turtles, white-tipped reef shark, manta ray under the rocks, spotted eagle ray, boxfish, very large parrot fish and a pelican watching from the rocks.  Fabulous snorkel, only marred by a few of our group who decided to dive and get in the way just as I was taking a video.

Welcomed back on board with a slice of pizza and a hot chocolate. Yum.

Navigated to San Cristobal Island. After dinner we watched Silk Shark surrounding the boat – there must have been at least 50x of these enormous shark. We soon found out why, when various flying fish came flying through the water, then hit the side of the boat and were rendered unconscious. Weirdly, the sharks then couldn’t detect them, so a sealion was taking his chances and stealing the fish from the middle of the shark.  When a fish zapped off, there was a frenzy of sharks following it and catching it swiftly. Ed was using his torch to spotlight this feeding fest, which went on for over half hour.

The weather then started to get a bit choppy so I decided to go to bed early.

Floreana Island. Post Office Bay. 14th May 2017


Sunday 14th May 2017

Floreana

Boat had moved overnight to Floreana Island– One of the oldest islands, with interesting human history of marooned whales, prisoners and colonists, bizarre disappearances and murders! Made up of numerous extinct volcanic cones with established scrubby vegetation.

After breakfast, went straight for a snorkel which was more of a drift dive past some rocks. Visibility much better and on two passes saw white tipped and one large black tipped reef shark, barracuda, green turtle, sea lions and a spotted eagle ray.  A further dive saw a manta ray hiding in the rocks. Had my go-pro, so some good shots.

Back to the boat to change, then on to Cormorant Point – two highly contrasting beaches. Our landing beach was of volcanic origin, composed of olivine crystals giving it a greenish tinge. At the end of the short trail where we saw batches of pink flamingos on a lake, was a carbonate beach of extremely fine white sand, formed by the erosion of coral skeletons – a nesting site for green sea turtles.  Here we could only paddle in the water but saw a load of sting rays in the surf. Also one green turtle that was probably waiting for dark to come in and lay some eggs in the sand.  Interesting sand diagram from a fantatisca crab. Pete spotted a penguin but I missed it.

Back to the boat and motored around to Post Office bay.  In 1793 James Colnett, the captain of a whaling vessel, established the wooden post barrel on Floreana.  Whaling ships, typically offshore for two years at a time, frequented the archipelago.  Outbound ships would drop off letters after rounding the cape and the ships returning home would mail them. We took the opportunity to partake in this amazing postal service, and collected two postcards to deliver to Wool and Essex for their intended recipients.  Some have written letters to themselves for collection in years to come, or for their children to collect.

Motored a little further to another part of the island and then we all went snorkelling off the beach.  Saw 5x giant turtle near the rocks and spent a good deal of time watching them eat off the rocks. Once back on the beach we were getting eaten by horse flies, so hailed a zodiac and got back to the boat for an early shower and some clothes washing. 
A pre-dinner rum to watch the sunset.  ‘soup, Ham, brussels, mash for dins. Watched the stars. Transferred to Espanola, choppy seas with a corkscrew motion. Not pleasant so I finished my blog and had an early night.  Horizontal was good and I didn’t feel seasick.  Iain reported that one engine gave up mid-way, but unknown cause.  Glad I missed it.

Santa Cruz. Puerto Ayora. Giant Tortoises. 13th May 2017


Saturday 13th May 2017

Santa Cruz. Puerto Ayora

Had travelled overnight and woke up in the bay of Puerto Ayora. Clearly a popular town with loads of boats moored in the bay. Took the zodiac into town and was somewhat surprised to see a seal on the landing pontoon, lying on a bench. Very relaxed!  Another was further down the pontoon just lying on the floor, oblivious to the people taking photo, or just trying to avoid it. We all wandered through town to the Charles Darwin centre. As we passed Pelican bay, a lady selling fresh fish was surrounded by Pelicans and one seal, all getting up close and personal, hoping for some fish scraps!

The Charles Darwin centre was a conservation centre for giant tortoises.  Sadly there was a building dedicated to ‘Lonesome George’ who had been the last remaining giant tortoise on Pinta island and the rarest creature in the world. What were believed to be the last three tortoises were removed to a museum in 1910s then George was found in 1971. Very sad to think that he had spent 65 years as the last of his species, on his own. He was transferred to the centre and they tried 4 different female tortoises with him, without success. He finally died in 2012 from natural causes, probably due to overfeeding – in the wild they go for months without food each year. Weird to see him now, stuffed in an air-conditioned room, and subject of our photos.

They’ve now got batches of tortoises being reared, even using the same soil from the relevant islands, ready to return and repopulate the islands.  Saw a few giant tortoises in fairly large compounds – Victor Meldrew eat your heart out.

Wandered back to Puerto Ayora and checked that our bags had arrived at Scuba Iguana. Relief. Celebrated with an early lunchtime happy hour with Pete and Brenda – Mojitos. Checked out various shops, but all quite expensive. Not surprising as everything is imported.

Back to the boat for lunch, then back to town again for a bus trip El Chato Tortoise Reserve. This was in the centre of Santa Cruz and was a reserve dedicated to Giant Tortoises.  We walked around with our guide to see lots of huge tortoises variously eating the tree fruit, wallowing in the ponds, or just eating grass.  We weren’t allowed to get more than 7 feet from them, but they didn’t seem bothered by the attention anyway.

Walked through a couple of volcanic lava tunnels, caused by the gradual cooling of lava flows.

Back to Puerto Ayora where the majority hit happy hour, but we went off to find our hotel for post-boat holiday. Quite happy with what we found, and a laundry around the corner!  Bought a rash vest on sale – will be useful for all the snorkelling. Saw a Pelican stealing a large fish tail from the fishmongers. Unfortunately it was so large it got caught in its neck and had to undergo lots of contortions to try and swallow the tail. His embarrassment wasn’t helped by me filming it right beside him.

Back for dinner on board the boat, then back to town again on the RIB. Hit a local bar for some gin and tonics – long time since we’ve had those. $12 for three ‘happy hour’.  A local festival had started up, probably to celebrate Mothers’ day tomorrow, but not much music and tended to be lots of talking (tombola?), plus outside stalls. Bought a small wooden giant tortoise and seal.

10 pm rib back to the boat.

Galapagos. Santa Cruz Island. Cerro Dragon. 12th May 2017


Friday 12th May 2017

Galapagos

Santa Cruz – North Seymour Island. Cerro Dragon.

The boat moved during the night and we woke us in the NW of Santa Cruz Island. We’d decided to get up early and miss any tourist crowds, so 7am breakfast. RIB to the island and dry landing onto some rocks.  Long walk around the island with our new guide, Macarone, who was much better than the last guy. Flat topography, strewn with boulders. Straight away saw sealions hauled out on the beachbasking in the sun, pelicans, frigate birds and land iguanas. Lovely walk in the cooler part of the day with good commentary from Macarone.

Snack of inca-cola and cheese on toast.

Out for a snorkel off the RIB. Water quite cool and choppy, so visibility not great. Took the GoPro this time and managed to capture a few reef shark, Pacific Crevalle Jack and King Angel fish. 

Lunch was minestone soup, spaghetti, Bolognese, garlic bread and broccoli, tomatoes/cucumber, chocolate ice cream.

After lunch, moved around to Cerro Dragon for another dry landing.  Saw Marine Iguana, on land and one basking in the water, with others swimming around.  Another long walk around the coast then inland, mainly bird spotting. However saw loads of land iguana and their dens for laying eggs. They are beautiful dragon-like creatures, none of which were bothered at all by us and seemed to pose for photos. 

In 1975, this was one of the only places where land iguanas were in a healthy state. Programme started to conserve them with breeding.   No dogs in Cerro Dragon and constant monitoring of cats and donkeys.  Finally back to the beach where a stork was drying its wings and more red crabs.

Afternoon tea was hot chocolate and biscuits.

Another snorkel late afternoon whilst the sun set. I missed a seal in the water and visibility again not great. However nice to cool off from the hot day. Videod the gang in the water.

Dinner was white fish in coconut sauce, rice, white cabbage and radish, cauliflower.

Caught up on blog with a cold beer. Bliss. Saw the Southern Cross and what appeared to be a full moon.


Quito to Galapagos. MV Penguino. 11th May 2017


Thursday 11th May 2017

Quito to Galapagos. MV Penguino
The lovely hacienda gave us an early breakfast of scrambled eggs and tree tomato smoothie at 6.15am.  Departed 6.45 with Diane and Terry with our bags in the back of a truck for the 15min transfer to the airport.  Left our extra bag for the boat with Gunna to take as his luggage, we took the two suitcases which were now at 20kg each, ready to dump on the mainland.

Plane was delayed for some unknown reason and Gunna, Ed and Jude actually left before us. Met up with Pete and Brenda at the airport, after their overland trip with Dragoman.

Landed at Baltra airport and hit by the heat and humidity, after the cool of the altitude of Ecuador. A chap named Angel met us and took the two suitcases to transport them to Scuba Iguana – paid him $70.  No idea whether they reached their destination at all, as no access to internet for the next week! Last seen boarding a bus, clearly to save him the taxi fare which we had paid for.  Another entrepreneur.

Met by our guide, Jimmy, and taken on an old bus to the dock nearby where we boarded a RIB to take us to the MV Penguino.  Allocated our various berths – we had room 2 which was a single bunk bed on the top deck, Pete and Brenda managed to get the double bed and single bunk above. Gunna was stuck downstairs with just a porthole.

After a short boat ride, we again boarded the RIB, had a ‘wet landing’ i.e. jumped into the water by the beach, and went for a walk around Baltra Island. Immediately accosted by bright red Sally Lightfoot crabs and lots of Frigate birds that looked like prehistoric pteradactyls.  Our guide gave us the brief about not touching any animals, staying 2 metres away, no use of flash etc. He then drivelled on about not being able to survive in the mid-land between the sea and the central hills. I just wanted to get on with the walk rather than listening to his horror stories. The island was fairly low-lying so it was easy walking along the beach area and then slightly inland through shrub trees and grasses. One sad sight was a mass of Frigate birds dive bombing a green turtle nest where the turtles were just hatching. None survived.  Lots of other birds present, including Pelicans.

Back to the boat and changed into snorkelling gear.  Nice snorkel off the beach and saw a huge green turtle which we followed for a while. Lots of Sergeant Major fish and various parrot fish (Bicolour and bluechin), butterfly fish, Angel Fish and later a white-tipped reef shark.  After about an hour, back to the boat and got ready for dinner.

Watched some Pelicans in the water, hoping for some fish from the boat – then saw a very large shark swimming around – luckily didn’t eat the Pelicans who seemed unaware of their presence.

Quito area, Ecuador. Hummingbirds, roses and hike. 10th May 2017


Wednesday 10th May 2017

Quito area. Unfortunately pouring with rain which put paid to the 15km hike which Tomaz had planned. Secretly pleased, as the ground was sodden and it was ‘Equatorial Flat’ i.e. up and down some serious hill/mountainsides.  With the Galapagos in sight, I didn’t want injuries or soaked clothing in ‘left luggage’ for a week.  Instead we went to a Hummingbird centre where hundreds of different varieties were supping a sweet liquid, only feet from us.  Diane and Terry braved an hour hiking in the pouring rain. We stayed watching birds under cover, and having hot tea next to a wood fire.  The lunch (nose) bag was a fabulous huge sandwich with multi-slices of meat and salad. Very tasty.

Visited a rose distributor where we saw hundreds of roses boxed up ready for sending abroad. Beautiful perfect roses with 3foot long stems (Russian market like them long for some reason) were selected, de-thorned and packaged in what appeared to be a small family-run outfit.  Roses are one of the main exports for Equador (Oil first, then tuna, bananas and coffee).

The rain eased a little and I decided to get wet and brave an afternoon walk with Tomaz, Diane and Terry.  As luck would have it, the clouds cleared and it started to get quite hot! Walked to the Lagunas de Banos, at altitude of 3800metres – a lovely waterfall and then tried to reach the mountain lakes until mud stopped us.

Back to Quito, staying at the Posada Mirolindo Hotel, a hacienda outside of town, but 15 mins from the airport. Lovely little walled homestead with llama, chickens, donkey and their own veggie patches.  Very friendly and allowed Gunna and crew to leave their luggage there whilst they went on the Galapagos boat trip.

Equator Line. Otavalo, Ecuador. 9th May 2017


Tuesday 9th May 2017

Equator. Otavalo

Drove through Ecuador. Very green mountainous countryside with views of the base of volcanos, masked by cloud.  Stopped off at the Equator for the usual touristy pictures of feet either side of the northern and southern hemisphere.  Given an interesting talk about the location of ancient buildings, placed exactly on the location of the rising sun at the spring and autumn equinox. The ancient civilisations clearly were very advanced in their thinking. Also the churches in Quito, which were all built over the original temples, all line up to match the summer solstice.  We bought a dvd explaining the science, including the links to the star systems of the hemispheres.

I used the banos and tried the Coriolis Effect (see whether the water would drain counterclockwise, clockwise or straight down).  It went straight down, but that was probably just the design of the sink. Had to be done!

On to Otavalo for some serious shopping.  This town was never conquered and managed to keep its artisan roots.  En-route we stopped off for some coffees and the Ecuadorian version of biscotti.  Then an entrepreneurial lady boarded the bus, explained her dress and different ways to wear her shawl (usual thing that different styles for single or married). After a short song, she then produced a couple of bags of scarfs and pashminas and sold a batch to us all as the bus continued its route.  We dropped her off at the next town – great way to do business.  Once at Otavalo, we all disappeared into a lovely big market full of textiles and crafts. After some haggling I managed to buy a couple of tablecloths and a pashmina.

We then continued to Cotacachi, a town known for its leather-work.  As soon as we left the bus we were accosted by a man selling belts and Iain bought a couple.  We wandered through town through a batch of shops selling bags, jackets, saddles, shoes etc and bought some more bits for souvenirs.  Belts only cost $8. After an exhausting days’ shopping we found a cafĂ© selling beers and indulged.

Stayed at Hacienda Pinsaqui, a family-run historical building, where Simon Bolivar had stayed (in Ed and Jude’s room).  Our room had a huge window which was popping out and seemed to be more at home on HMS Victory.  It was also on three levels with an ancient bathroom (free standing bath) on the lower level and a small single bed loft.  I liked the old rooms and open wood fireplaces, Iain hated it!  We had a welcome meeting in the old stables with cheese nibbles and a cocktail, entertained by five guys wearing the traditional white trousers and shirts and white shoes, playing guitars, pan pipes and unfortunately a recorder.  They were pretty average and failed miserably in selling any CDs.  The owner gave a little speech of welcome then we all trooped into dinner. Although a very posh hotel, our meal of pork in traditional spices was quite dry. Soup of sweet potato, with avocado and cheese was nice.

A nice bonus was that we had hotwater bottles put into the bed, as it was quite cold (still at altitude).

Return from Amazon to Quito. 8th May 2017


Monday 8th May 2017

Return from Amazon to Quito

An earlyish start – left at 8am for the paddle then motorised canoe, this time against the current.  We were issued with rubberised ponchos for the trip.  Unfortunately it was hammering down with rain, and with no sides to the boat, the seats got wet and even with the ponchos, we were soaked.  Law of averages, we were lucky to have got away with such lovely weather in the rain forest.  After a couple of hours we finally arrived in Coca and changed clothes in the tour office. A private minibus took us back to Quito and the Hotel Reine Isabel, who had kindly looked after our main bags for a few days.  We located a launderette just around the corner and deposited a couple of bags of smelly clothes which they washed and dried for just $4 (about the same price as one pair of shorts at hotel launderette prices). Finding a launderette anyway is a major luxury!!  We were also broke so found an ATM to get sufficient money for the Galapagos, including the $200 park fees. Feeling noble having done our chores, we had a beer at a local cafĂ© and I had a full manicure for the grand total of $4. 

Met up with Ed and Jude and went for a wander, but found that most of the town had closed (found later than restaurants close on Mondays!).  Therefore settled for a pizza.

Coca – Orellana Province and Sucumbios Province. Meet indiginous community. 7th May


Sunday 7th May 2017

Coca – Orellana Province and Sucumbios Province.

La Selva Lodge

Another 5.30am start, this time to paddle up the river, then motorised canoe, to see the clay lick.  This occurred where a part of the bank had collapsed to reveal a cliff of clay, a magnet for parrots and macaws.  They are fairly safe from anacondas and eagles, so use the area as a ‘parrot facebook’ to meet up in the mornings, catch up on gossip, and nibble the clay which is full of vital minerals.  This only lasts about an hour, hence the early start, then they all disappear to their own patch.  Hundreds of parrots descended to give us a show.

We then continued up-river to visit a local indigenous community.  A Ketchewan-speaking native, Marta, gave us a lovely welcome and showed us around her village – school, community centre, elders house, all surrounding a very boggy football pitch (everyone in South America seems to be fixated with football).  Then she showed us various plants which were used for medicinal purposes, as well as eating, and how to plant Yucca/cassava.  The piece de resistance was using a blow pipe to spear a guava, including some arrows laced with kurari poison!  Iain and I had a go and managed to kill the guava which didn’t put up much of a battle. Diane became Queen of the Jungle with a hand-weaved crown and some make-up made from a small hairy fruit!   We were then shown the kitchen area where plantains and corn were being cooked, and given a bowl of chichi and small plate of local foods including catfish. Quite tasty.  They had various handmade jewellery for sale but nothing that would stand the test of use in our world.

Back to the Lodge for lunch and more fishing for piranha and a swim.  Ed, Jude and I decided to indulge in a bit of yoga which was very odd. Luckily she didn’t make us do a mantra, but lots of deep breathing and ‘I am’ repetition. We tried not to laugh, but after some stretching we proved how relaxed we were by all falling asleep in the middle of her lesson!  Oops.

Late afternoon we went for another walk through the jungle and then met up with our canoe for a paddle around the lake and up river, but again we failed to find any sloths. However the monkeys came out again for some entertainment and lots of lovely birds.  This time I took a go-pro video of the jungle scenery.

Back for some pre-dinner drinkies and a cocktail supplied by the hotel.  Another lovely 3x course dinner with the whole dining room to ourselves. Caught up with the intermittent wifi access.

Packed.

Coca – Swim with Piranhas! La Selva Amazon Lodge 6th May 2017


Saturday 6th May 2017

Coca – La Selva Amazon Lodge

Up very early – 5.30 start for breakfast, then donned our Wellies, and went for another walk through the jungle to eventually reach a clearing with an enormous Kapok tree. Next to the tree was a metal staircase which worked its way around the branches to a platform right up in the canopy. From there we spent a couple of hours armed with our binoculars and Jairo’s telescope to spot all varieties of birds and a troupe of monkeys. 

Once back at the Lodge we all messed around doing various activities.  Jude and I went for a swim in the lake – surprising warm, but with hot patches then very cold sections – like a thermal reaction for some reason.  Iain and I then took a canoe around the lake to explore the surrounds – lots of turtle basking in the sun on low branches, smelly turkeys, and lovely scenery.

Back for a three-course lunch made by an excellent chef, then the rest of the hotel guests disappeared and we had the whole place to ourselves for the remainder of the stay!  Seriously pampered service!  The afternoon was very hot and humid, so we swam again then entertained ourselves fishing for piranha in the same lake where we’d just been swimming!  Iain caught a large sardine, Gunna a large piranha and Terry caught the majority of fish.  I caught nothing but managed to feed the contents of the lake with my raw red-meat bait which was nibbled off as soon as it went in the water!

Another canoe ride up the river and we were lucky enough to see a troupe of monkeys leaping around the trees and eating any fruit in sight.

Over dinner it started to rain so we had a few drinks expecting the evening canoe ride to be cancelled.  It wasn’t, so in the drizzle, we started off on a 10person canoe – very wobbly and not helped by the wine we’d consumed. Also no life jackets so not the most sensible decision.   We were paddled around and saw lots of swifts and some bats, but not much else. No sign of any sloths. The rain got a little heavier so we called an early halt.

Quito to Coca. La Selva Amazon Lodge 5th May 2017


Friday 5th May 2017

Quito to Coca.

Flight to Coca, then bus to the shore where boarded a large motorised ‘canoe’ style boat. Fast trip down the Napo River, with the current, avoiding all the sand banks and pieces of floating detritus from fallen trees and river bank.  After a couple of hours, walked across a piece of land to a parallel river/lake system. This time we had a smaller canoe, hand paddled through a beautiful winding river, narrowly missing the banks either side. Eventually made it to our private lake belonging to the La Selva Amazon Lodge.

The Lodge was an eco-lodge, so we had a briefing on trying to conserve the environment as well as a talk about the Amazon basin (enormous – the USA would fit into it completely). Then after being supplied with Wellie Boots, we went off for an evening walk through the jungle with our guide Jairo (pronounced Hyro) and Hose, an indigenous guide.  Most of the flora/fauna they picked out, we would have completely missed.  Cicadas that looked like leaves, praying mantis, frogs and toads etc.  Also weird fungus that get ingested by small insects then act as an hallucinogen eventually making the insect climb to a high point before killing them and using the carcass as a basis for growing.  Yuck.

Very nice dinner on our return – three courses after Ecuatorian Caipirinhas. Our room was just outside the restaurant area, past a tree with a large tarantula as resident host.

Thursday 11 May 2017

Banos to Quito, Ecuador. 4th May 2017


Thursday 4th May 2017

Banos to Quito

9am start with private minibus driven by Lenin (this is a Socialist country after all !). Driven through very agricultural area with most pieces of land covered with sugar and banana plantations as well as fruit trees and vegetables. All surrounded by volcanos and mountainside. Very picturesque, but unfortunately they’ve removed lots of forest in order to maximise the farming.  About 30 km from Quito we ground to a halt with part of the fan-belt disappearing.  Used opportunity to catch up on blog while they sent a replacement vehicle.

Eventually arrived in Quito, booking into the Hotel Reina Isabel.  Quite good location with lots of cafes, hotels and small shops.  All the gang went for a walk into the old part of town.  Very large city, buzzing with usual food and trinket sellers through the park.  The cathedral was massive and seemed to be in three sections. I quite liked the outside stone carvings – instead of usual angels, it had different jungle animals.  Otherwise, they charged $2 entry fee, as did all of the churches in Quito.  Iain didn’t bother – all Churched out.  Gunna found a nice little cafĂ© opposite, so we indulged in a late lunch of mixed churasco and some dodgy wine which they found lurking in a cupboard somewhere.   On way back, Iain and I wandered into some music shops and I managed to stop him buying a charanga (small Andean guitar with 5x double strings like a lute, with an armadillo as the ‘box’!). Not sure that customs or my ears would stand it.

Banos - Zip wire idiot. 3rd May 2017


Wednesday 3rd May 2017

Banos

Collected by an open-top double-decker bus, luckily with a temporary roof as it was pouring with rain. Drove around the one-way streets in town collecting a few other ‘touriste’ and then off through the cloud forest to see some canyons and waterfalls.  Bit of an odd tour as no timings involved and it was left loose as to whether we did anything at each of the stops.  The first canyon had a very dodgy-looking cable ‘car’ to get a birds-eye view.  At the huge cost of $1 we indulged!  At the other side there was the option of taking a zip-wire back for $10.  Diane and I went for it.  Fabulous fast zip wire with a very interesting finish – some poor bloke having to hang on to a trailing rope to stop me going back out onto the canyon, nearly taking him with me!  The next stop had a similar zip-wire for tandem flyers, but raining by that stage so we didn’t take part. I took another cable ‘bucket’ across the canyon to get a better view of the confluence of two rivers into a waterfall, coming from the hydro-electric dam.   The last stop was a huge waterfall (Bride’s Bell) which was fast and furious.  The last part was accessed by a bouncy rope bridge which was only a little rusty.  Some brave/stupid people went further down to stand near the drop and get completely soaked.  Not great idea when not particularly hot to dry out.  

Last stop was on the notorious Ecuadorian death road, which has now been somewhat renovated with actual paving and a small wall to save you from the sheer drop. The bus wasn’t allowed further along, so we walked a short way. How this was ever a two-way unpaved road beggars belief.  Twenty six people died in one bus that went over the edge, and others lost their lives when they exited the tunnel into blinding light, just as the road veered to the left.

Another tunnel was so low we were asked to not stand or put our arms up on the top deck.

Happy to return to Banos where we had a late lunch of fish, chips (and of course the usual rice) with beer, at a little family-run restaurant.  Lunch was $5.   Ed, Jude, Iain and I then went in search of a grog shop that we’d spotted from the bus. Eventually found it and bought a couple of bottles of decent rum.  Then celebrated with a cappuccino at the Blah Blah cafĂ©.  More Dollars from ATM machine – need to pay $200 cash to Galapagos Nature Reserve.  On way back to the hotel, Iain tried to escape my clutches but failed miserably and I dragged him into a pelluteria (hairdressers).  He was finally given a decent haircut ($7) and I tipped handsomely. 

Sorted out some finances and paid the balance of the Galapagos cruise. We’d been given the bad news that our boat the Floreana had developed engine trouble, but luckily an alternative boat had been found.  Not sure where it departs from though and our plans to drop luggage an onward hotel may need to be changed.  Internet not working very well so tedious sorting out emails and couldn’t get on to Facebook.

Evening was another rum/coke and crisps session. Put the world to right.

Cuenca to Banos, Ecuador. 2nd May 2017


Tuesday 2nd May 2017

Cuenca to Banos

Took minibus with Wilson still acting as guide.  A bone-jarring journey through the mountains, with lots of evidence of small land-slips, then one enormous one which took out the road and caused us to detour through some small villages before re-joining the Pan-American Highway. Raining in places but a lovely trip nonetheless with lots of small farms, terraced farming, very dark rich volcanic earth providing enormous fruit and vegetables.

Stopped off en-route in a town where we ate chicken and chips from a rotisserie – huge portion with additional rice and salsa salad for $5. 

After about 9 hours, arrived in the town of Banos, staying at the Monte Selva located at the base of a mountain and which had its own thermal spa.  We therefore immediately indulged in a thermal soak with a brief sauna and Turkish bath.  The swimming pool was too cool to brave.  Suitably refreshed, we went for a wander around town which seemed to be a back-packers and local holiday-maker resort.  Lots of hostels, tour sellers, kiosks selling tat – but generally clean and tidy.  There were also a multitude of hairdressers and barbers shops so I stopped off and had a trim.  Finally, I can see! $7 for a cut. Iain hid.

Back for rum and cokes near our rooms. The hotel kindly supplied an ice bucket.

Tuesday 2 May 2017

Cuenca, Ecuador. 1st May 2017


Monday 1st May 2017

Cuenca, Ecuador.



Collected by our guide, Wilson, for a city tour. Most shops closed due to bank holiday, but various festivals going on. Nice picture of the statue of a family helping children up the slippery pole. If they reached the top, they received the prizes on the top.  Also another lovely piece of artwork of a family on a cycle ride – near the broken bridge.  Visited the Panama hat factory where saw how the hats were made from the cutting of the reeds, through weaving, pressing and finishing.  Bought a hat which I’m sure I’ll be able to use in the heat of the UK summer! Walked through a lovely park where many of the locals were taking advantage of exercise routes and machines, to see the confluence of two of the four Cuenca rivers. Very pleasant.  Finished with a city tour of the cathedral and squares, admiring the mixture of French and Spanish style architecture.
Lunch at a small family-type restaurant where we had a $5.85 meal of pork in cornflour steamed in leaves, grilled trout with what appeared to be fried parsnips and salad and starfruit. Washed down with Chilean dry white wine.  Staggered back to our hotel via a kiosk where jointly purchased a bottle of rum and enormous coke bottle for $13. Rest of afternoon was spent on Ed and Jude’s balcony overlooking the river and watching the sunset, demolishing said bottle of rum.

Mancora to Huaquillas to Cuenca, Ecuador - 30th April 2017



Sunday 30th April 2017

Mancora to Huaquillas to Cuenca, Ecuador

Lovely relaxing morning. After breakfast on terrace, went for a wander to nearby fisherman’s wharf to watch the catch coming in. Sunday, so a bit quieter than usual but the pelicans, cormorants and frigate birds were still on standby.  Also saw a very large turtle and a glimpse of a seal. Think they disappeared into deeper water away from the propellors. Very pleasant place to chill out, with lots of friendly locals. Picture of Roberto with local police motorcyclist and a fisherman.  Wandered back to hotel and showered/packed for midday departure.

Waited for public bus from Mancora to Huaquillas, but was over an hour late. Usual bureaucracy at a pre-border check where Iain had his suitcase checked (unlucky- only 3x bags from bus chosen). No other apparent checks and then drove for about an hour until reached the border. Tedious queue for exiting Peru stamp, then another queue for entry to Ecuador. Couple of queue jumpers got short shrift. 10 mins later we arrived at Huaquillas bus station then transferred to private minibus for further 4 hour bone-jarring trip to Cuenca. Most of the road was unmade, and some decidedly dodgy with small landslips. Slightly alleviated by a stop at petrol station where a pack of cold beers and crisps were bought to cover our lunch and dinner. Finally arrived at lovely Hotel Crespo around 11pm. Straight to bed. Sleep at 11.05pm….


Mancora. Chill out day. 29th April 2017



Saturday 29th April 2017

Transfer to Mancora Marina Hotel which helpfully gave us an early check-in and breakfast. Huge amount of dragonflies around the hotel and frigate birds with a few vultures flying overhead.  Lovely long pool with a beachfront aspect.

Gunna and Ed visited the Loki Hostel which a friend of Gunna’s (David) owned. Average age 20 until the lads walked in!  Apparently the place to go – large swimming pool, constant entertainment/sports, low priced beer and food.

Iain and I flopped around the pool and beach area all day.  Good to do nothing at all. Think we needed to relax and chill. I had a massage in room – S70 for hour.  Very very good – fell asleep 3x!

Risked Happy Hour – started 5pm till 8pm. Mojitos a bit weak, Gin very odd, so ended up with sharing dry white wine.  Lovely meal of steak in peppers and onions and rice.   Iain had grilled grouper followed by a pancake. Ate out on the terrace, but somewhat plagued by lots of beetles aiming for the lights.  Nice crunchy sound as the waitress walked back and forth!  Lovely breeze from the ocean.  

Trujillo chill out. Night bus to Mancora - 28th April 2017


Friday 28th April 2017

Trujillo/Mancora

Day relaxing at the hotel. Dodgy tummy still so didn’t want to venture far. Caught up on chores – all the laundry, postcards, transferring photos to Ed and Jude, facebook and finances.  Needed a day out not doing anything much.  Nothing to eat and only water to drink.

Took the evening Olltura bus to Mancora. Departed 8pm and didn’t arrive until about 7am. Very comfortable bus with nearly horizontal reclining seats, however I couldn’t get to sleep. Delayed for hour due to a punctured tyre.

Trujillo, Huanchaco. Chan Chan Citadel - 27th April 2017



Thursday 27th April 2017

Collected by our guide Yvette for a half day tour around colonial Trujillo which was built between four ChimĂș archaeological sites.

Visited the main square ‘Plaza de Armas’ and various Spanish colonial houses (one of which is now a bank) with paintings within their courtyards, hand carved furniture and ornate grill work.  On to ‘Chan Chan’ the pre-Columbian adobe citadel of the Chimu culture, which was enormous. It was surrounded by huge smooth flat walls with only one entrance and loooong pathways.  The site just got better the more we walked, with original carvings in the adobe still visible. The site was used for collecting taxes, offerings and ceremonies. Onto the pre-Inca temple of ‘Huaca El Dragon’/rainbow temple which was a lot smaller and was used as a storage area for food as well as a first floor ceremonial square.  Again some superb carvings remained and it was clear to see the various diagrams of fish, condor, puma etc.

Dropped off for lunch at lovely restaurant, El Sombrero, included in package. Pisco Sours on arrival, raw fish Ceviche for Iain, I had an avocado salad, then Sea Bass for Iain and a sea bass soup for me. Stomach feeling a bit dodgy for me, so tiny portions with Iain hoovering up anything remaining. Ice cream to finish.  All overlooking the seafront from a 1st floor vantage point, cooled by the sea breeze.  Very nice.

Had a wander up "El Muelle", or the pier, a landmark of Huanchaco. This steel pier was constructed in 1891, it is 108 meters long and full of families playing with crabbing lines. Bit like home! 

The fishermen use their "Caballitos de totora", reedboats shown in ceramics that date from 500BC. They don’t seem at all practical and use what appears to be a plank as an oar. The boats become waterlogged so are used for a couple of hours, then lined up on the beach to dry out – 25kg dry, over 50kg wet, so you need to be ‘a man’ to carry it to and from the beach. Rite of passage methinks.