Macchu Pichu – Ollantaytambo – Cusco. 18th April 2017

Tuesday 18^th April 2017

Macchu Pichu – Ollantaytambo – Cusco

We could have woken at 4am and travelled up to Machu Picchu for the sunrise. The four of us decided against in favour for a lie-in!  We had made the right decision, it was overcast and rainy.  Collected by Walter at 9am for a transfer on the shuttle bus up to the site.  He took us around the temples, plazas, palaces, watercourses  and residential areas.

 

I particularly liked the two circular bowls hewn out of granite and filled with water that were positioned precisely on a north/south line position. They were almost certainly used to view the stars/planets as a reflection in the water. 

Also the sun dials at the very top of the complex.  Unfortunately the weather was overcast/rainy which somewhat reduced the photo taking. 

 

 

Walter left us after about 3 hours and we also made tracks to get back on the shuttle bus through the queues.  We had a quick walk around the town, ate a hamburger lunch and then collected our bags from hotel to get to the railway station (through a mad indoor market). 

We boarded the Vistadrome Train to return to Ollantaytambo station and settled in for a quiet scenic journey. Waiters provided drinks and a light pizza type snack which was very pleasant.  We were a little surprised when a masked man in full regalia started dancing down the aisles, then followed by a fashion show with the waiters wearing various designs of alpaca clothing!  Not like British Rail at all !!  Good fun, and all the carriage joined in with heckling and clapping.  

 

 

Once at Ollantaytambo, we easily found our Perurail bimodal bas to Wanchaq in Cusco, and slept most of the way. We were then collected and transferred to Los Andes de America Hotel in Cusco.  Arrived late and were sorting out our mess, when Ed and Jude arrived with wine and helped debrief us.  Great timing.  Wine was needed and lovely to see them again.

Inca Trail completed - Arrived at Machu Picchu. 17th April 2017

Monday 17^th April 2017

Complete Inca Trail

Both Iain and I woke up with something having bitten both of our left eyes. The eyes had swollen up so that we could hardly see out, but not painful.  Diane was helpless with laughter when she named it ‘Shrek 4’. The porters were mortified and supplied little tied plastic bags with ice-cold stream water to relieve the swelling.  We said goodbye to 5x of the younger porters who had to disappear and get ready to meet the next group – they were all very happy with their tips, and also to be running down the mountain which was a lot easier than going up! Lovely group of lads.

 

We started down a vertiginous trail which was not one for the feint-hearted, but we were by now committed. I felt sorry for anyone who tried to manage it in the dark!  Part of the trail took us through a long cave, and passing Incypata.  Uneven and deep stone Inca steps helped us descend quickly for about 3 hours to the ruins of Winaywayna, a lovely Inca site in dense forest.  The complex had been used by farmers who used the terracing system to reclaim the steep slopes for agriculture. 

Lunch was alfresco, but still at a table, with a full three course lunch of soup, meat/pasta/vegetables and pudding.  Extremely hot weather.   We said goodbye to the remaining porters and Alfredo our cook, and had a photo taken with them all. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In the afternoon, we walked another 2 hours through more spectacular scenery and seeing the back end of the Machu Picchu mountain. The river was far below and gradually we were getting lower in height. Sadly though, after again having to climb some steps we found the ‘Gringo Killer’ steps – 50x steps which are not wide enough to put your foot on fully, rounded, and Very steep. I abandoned my walking poles and crawled up using hands and feet. Pathetic!  

Finally. Finally… we reached Intipunku, the Sun Gate, from where we had our first glimpse of Machu Picchu.  I could hardly breathe and actually didn’t take much notice until I had a chance to collect myself. A nice American girl saw me and asked where I had arrived from, as she saw the small walled gate we’d crawled through. I explained that it had taken four days to get there and she said it had taken her about 40 minutes from the other side main entrance!!! 

We took the statutory photos, and luckily the weather was still glorious.  Eventually we walked through to Machu Picchu and took a shuttle bus down to the town of Aguas Calientes.   

Found out we weren't booked into hotel we thought had been booked! Ran out of time to get a massage or use the hot springs. Shifted all our gear to new hotel which immediately had a power cut. Walked up 5 floors to room. Sorted laundry out and gave it to lovely man who was waiting in reception (arranged by Walter). Further power cut when wanted a shower.  Incredible.  Went for a quick pizza and pisco sour. laundry returned 10.30pm. Luckily Iain was still awake to receive it. I was asleep!

Inca Trail day 3/4 Cloud Forest, 16th April 2017

Sunday 16^th April 2017

Day 3/4 Inca Trail – Runkuraqay, Phuyupatamarca.

I naively thought that the Dead Woman's Pass would be the end of uphill climbs. How very wrong. The whole trail is a series of ups and downs. We started with a climb to the second pass at Runkuraqay where we could see the Vilcabamba and Urubamba mountains.

We then descended for about 2 hours down a paved Inca road (actually ankle-breaking cobble stones) to the ruins of Runkuraqay. Terry and Diane also explored Sayaqmarca, but Iain and I looked at the extra 100x dodgy steps and gave it a miss.

 

We were by now in the Cloud Forest which gave some lovely cool cover from the hot sun, with lots of bamboo, lichen, and numerous varieties of moss over the cliffs and hanging from the trees. 




Another thigh and calf-killing stone staircase descent took us to our third campsite near the ruins of Phuyupatamarca.

 

We were again with lots of other groups at the campsite, but Walter had arranged that we were in a quiet area, so that we wouldn’t be disturbed by other groups getting up at 3am for the final push to Machu Picchu.  Crazy stuff – walking on these dodgy trails with a headtorch was not my idea of a holiday.

We all watched a superb sunset and wondered why our cook Alfonso seemed to be taking a long time mixing batter. 

All became clear when he proudly presented me with a large sponge cake with icing of ‘Linda’s Freedom Tour’.  I had told the porters that I had retired the day before the Inca trail, so it was a lovely way to celebrate – lot of pictures and all the porters also got a slice.

Inca Trail day 2/4. Dead Woman's Pass 15th April 2017

Day 2/4 Inca Trail.  Llulluchapampa. Dead Woman’s Pass

 

Woken up by a porter with a cup of coca-maté tea!  A full breakfast was supplied to get us ready for the most difficult hiking day. Started with a hike along the Huayllabamba valley for a couple of hours. Still being passed by donkeys and a couple of scrambler bikes supplying goods to the vendors at ‘baños’ still available along the trail. 

 

 

Then the trail climbed steadily and painfully though high Andean woodland to our lunch break at Llulluchapampa. This afforded excellent views of the Huayanay mountain chain. We initially were planning to camp at this site, but our guide Walter thought that we should press on as we seemed to be covering the mileage well. After lunch there was a loooong ‘staircase’, with some very big and wonky steps.

No more donkeys!  After two hours of uphill walking, with the rain then starting and oxygen becoming less, we finally gasped our way to reach the pass of Warmiwanuska (4220m), otherwise known as ‘Dead Woman’s Pass’.  Well named.  We were knackered. 

Diane and Terry who were a lot fitter and used to hiking, had gone ahead but waited for us at the top for a group photo. Above and beyond, as it was really cold and still raining. Diane was carrying an umbrella like Mary Poppins on cocaine – an odd but very welcome sight! 

 

We then quickly descended to the canyon of the Pacaymayo River where camp (3700m) had been set up for us. After this 8/9hrs walk at altitude, we demolished tea and crackers/jam popcorn, then a full dinner.  Walter supplied ‘te macho’ – a large jug of rum, hot tea, lemon/orange juice and sugar. Just what the doctor ordered!  The campsite was with other groups, but we had a pitch which was totally isolated.  Went to sleep to the sound of the running stream and a frog chorus.