Day 2/4 Inca Trail. Llulluchapampa. Dead Woman’s Pass
Woken up by a porter with a cup of coca-maté tea! A full breakfast was supplied to get us ready for the most difficult hiking day. Started with a hike along the Huayllabamba valley for a couple of hours. Still being passed by donkeys and a couple of scrambler bikes supplying goods to the vendors at ‘baños’ still available along the trail.
Then the trail climbed steadily and painfully though high Andean woodland to our lunch break at Llulluchapampa. This afforded excellent views of the Huayanay mountain chain. We initially were planning to camp at this site, but our guide Walter thought that we should press on as we seemed to be covering the mileage well. After lunch there was a loooong ‘staircase’, with some very big and wonky steps.
No more donkeys! After two hours of uphill walking, with the rain then starting and oxygen becoming less, we finally gasped our way to reach the pass of Warmiwanuska (4220m), otherwise known as ‘Dead Woman’s Pass’. Well named. We were knackered.
Diane and Terry who were a lot fitter and used to hiking, had gone ahead but waited for us at the top for a group photo. Above and beyond, as it was really cold and still raining. Diane was carrying an umbrella like Mary Poppins on cocaine – an odd but very welcome sight!
We then quickly descended to the canyon of the Pacaymayo River where camp (3700m) had been set up for us. After this 8/9hrs walk at altitude, we demolished tea and crackers/jam popcorn, then a full dinner. Walter supplied ‘te macho’ – a large jug of rum, hot tea, lemon/orange juice and sugar. Just what the doctor ordered! The campsite was with other groups, but we had a pitch which was totally isolated. Went to sleep to the sound of the running stream and a frog chorus.
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