Tuesday 4 April 2017

High desert, volcanos, salt plains Bolivia - 3rd April 2017



Monday 3rd April 2017

Due to the altitude, it’s an effort to do anything – even brushing teeth leaves you breathless, head pounding and heart racing.  Jude and Diane not well at all and were given some oxygen to help. Everyone seems to have headaches. Left about 8am.

First stop at the Laguna Honda which ponged a little of sulphur, but had thousands of flamingos, then onto Laguna Colorado which was a photographer’s paradise.  Also very calming with no other noise than the sound of the Flamingos communicating with each other.

Travelled through the Siloli desert area with its surreal rock formations caused by a volcanic explosion with the softer earth eroding around the sandstone.


Lots of other high altiplano lakes were passed, with beautiful reflections of the various volcanos and mountains in the background.  Most of the day was spent off-roading which was an absolute joy to be away from any other tourist. The drivers managed to pick a route, purely by their knowledge of the mountains and knowing where to aim. 







We initially stopped for lunch at an old deserted mining town, complete with an antiquated railway and old carriages.

However it seemed to be fly-city, so we drove to a partially completed ‘hotel’ which allowed us to use their ‘reception’. Very odd place built with salt bricks, but with a lovely view across the plains.  The drivers made a picnic of bread, ham, cheese, avocado, tomatoes, crisps and apple, with soft drinks.  Gunna and I spiced up our coke with a bit of his rum – obviously feeling better!  Unfortunately Jude was very ill all day which must have been a nightmare in the bouncing jeeps.  Iain starting to feel better.

Drove down through the Valle de Lasrocas (Valley of the Rocks) with more weird rock formations and clear evidence of volcanic explosions and lava flow. Then down to the Salar de Uyuni salt flats. 

 
We were somewhat surprised when our drivers drove off the clearly marked raised roadway, and down onto the flooded salt plains. The depth was only about 5cm of water above the white salt but it was very unnerving as it was like driving on ice and you expected it to crack! Highly unlikely as the salt is 50m in places. As it has been caused by evaporation of water, it is also completely flat, so is used to calibrate satellites.  We drove for about an hour over the plains, looking at the surrounding mountains and ‘islands’ which appeared to be floating above the surface of the salt. When we came to a drier piece of salt, we all got out of the jeeps to play silly buggers, taking photographs without perspective.















 
We finally left the salt plain for an overnight stay at the Tahua Hotel, San Juan.  Very basic-looking building, built with salt blocks and situated at the base of a volcano.  Interesting photographs and displays inside – salt tables, inca crosses, volcanic rocks.  Again, the water was heated from solar panels and the restaurant heated by an open wood fire.  The town opposite looked very basic – some places abandoned, others being constructed and most of the buildings made of salt blocks and tin rooves. Not a place to find a bar. Around the hotel were very small ‘gardens’ surrounded by dry rock walls, most of which were growing quinoa.  Some of the workers were still grafting in the gardens even after the sun had set.

 
 
 
 

Dinner at 7.30 was again a set meal, served to ourselves and the few other guests. A lovely creamy soup with cheese strands, beef slices with a herby sauce, quinoa, boiled carrots/broccoli/cauliflower, tiramisu.  Very nice.  Used opportunity of no wifi, TV, etc to catch up on blog ready for downloading when can get internet.

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