Monday 3rd April 2017
First stop at the Laguna Honda which ponged a little of sulphur, but
had thousands of flamingos, then onto Laguna Colorado which was a photographer’s
paradise. Also very calming with no
other noise than the sound of the Flamingos communicating with each other.
Travelled
through the Siloli desert area with its surreal rock formations caused by a
volcanic explosion with the softer earth eroding around the sandstone.
Lots of
other high altiplano lakes were passed, with beautiful reflections of the
various volcanos and mountains in the background. Most of the day was spent off-roading which
was an absolute joy to be away from any other tourist. The drivers managed to
pick a route, purely by their knowledge of the mountains and knowing where to
aim.
We initially stopped for lunch at
an old deserted mining town, complete with an antiquated railway and old
carriages.
However it seemed to be fly-city, so we drove to a partially
completed ‘hotel’ which allowed us to use their ‘reception’. Very odd place
built with salt bricks, but with a lovely view across the plains. The drivers made a picnic of bread, ham,
cheese, avocado, tomatoes, crisps and apple, with soft drinks. Gunna and I spiced up our coke with a bit of
his rum – obviously feeling better!
Unfortunately Jude was very ill all day which must have been a nightmare
in the bouncing jeeps. Iain starting to
feel better.
Drove down through the Valle de Lasrocas (Valley of the Rocks)
with more weird rock formations and clear evidence of volcanic explosions and
lava flow. Then down to the Salar de Uyuni salt flats.
We were somewhat surprised when our drivers
drove off the clearly marked raised roadway, and down onto the flooded salt
plains. The depth was only about 5cm of water above the white salt but it was
very unnerving as it was like driving on ice and you expected it to crack!
Highly unlikely as the salt is 50m in places. As it has been caused by
evaporation of water, it is also completely flat, so is used to calibrate satellites. We drove for about an hour over the plains,
looking at the surrounding mountains and ‘islands’ which appeared to be
floating above the surface of the salt. When we came to a drier piece of salt,
we all got out of the jeeps to play silly buggers, taking photographs without
perspective.
We finally left the salt plain for an overnight stay at the Tahua
Hotel, San Juan. Very basic-looking building,
built with salt blocks and situated at the base of a volcano. Interesting photographs and displays inside –
salt tables, inca crosses, volcanic rocks.
Again, the water was heated from solar panels and the restaurant heated
by an open wood fire. The town opposite
looked very basic – some places abandoned, others being constructed and most of
the buildings made of salt blocks and tin rooves. Not a place to find a bar.
Around the hotel were very small ‘gardens’ surrounded by dry rock walls, most
of which were growing quinoa. Some of
the workers were still grafting in the gardens even after the sun had set.
Dinner at 7.30 was again a set meal, served to ourselves and the few other guests. A lovely creamy soup with cheese strands, beef slices with a herby sauce, quinoa, boiled carrots/broccoli/cauliflower, tiramisu. Very nice. Used opportunity of no wifi, TV, etc to catch up on blog ready for downloading when can get internet.
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