Tuesday 4th April 2017
Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia
Had a quick walk around the hotel and down to the salt flats via
the rock wall-enclosed gardens growing quinoa, herbs, and onions. A small concrete irrigation channel supplied
the water with very basic metal gate/dams diverting the water off when
required. The white-walled little church
was locked, but we were able to wander around the outside and the graveyard
with blue plastic decorations. We found
an enclosure against the rock, with fairly small entrance, enough for alpaca or
chickens, then further on some alpaca/llama skins drying in the sun. Had a close call when the land cruiser came
to pick us up and asked whether anyone owned a purple rucksack. Ed went back as
they’d left it in the reception, to find that another group had already put his
rucksack in their van and was just about to drive off. Lesson learned – don’t leave without checking
your luggage is loaded on vehicle. 
First stop was a very small museum run by a chap in his 70s, on
his own, with a few llamas for company. Over the past 10 years he’s returned to
his roots and gathered an eclectic collection of stuffed animals, weapons,
pots, tools etc. 
He was happy to explain everything and seemed very content
with his life. The piece de resistance was his garden – a collection of
volcanic rocks which he’d formed into different animals, with lots of cacti and
hardy plants. In designing the garden, he’d also discovered a tomb which still
had mummified bodies within, alongside various offerings. Bit weird but part of his culture. 
Second stop was Isla Incahausi, an island in the middle of the Thunupa
salt flats, caused when the top of a volcano blew off and it landed many miles
away. Hence giant cacti were growing and small rodents and rabbits able to
survive. We walked about 2.5k up and
around the island, getting great panoramic views of the surrounding salt flats.
On returning to the vehicles, we found that the crew had put
table-cloths over salt tables and chairs, and prepared thin llama steaks,
salad, potatoes and vegetables with bon-o-bon chocolates. Still very high altitude so washed down with
lemonades. We then played silly-buggers
on the salt, taking pictures with complete lack of perspective. Hence holding a
spoon with person standing on spoon, all of us holding a person in our hands
into the distance, reading massive book, drinking from massive rum bottle etc.
Drove through salt mounds where the salt had been scraped off and
dried, then on to visit the town of Colchani to see how the salt was processed
in a fairly basic kiln, mixed with another chemical then sealed with a blow
torch and hot rod. None of it is for export you’ll be pleased to know.
Drivers stopped at the Hotel de Sal Playa Blanca, a famous salt hotel, with a salt monument ready for the
Dakar Rally. We met a mad Swedish lady who was cycling on her own across the salt
flats – mad. 
Then the ‘ojos del sal’ where water was bubbling up through holes
in the Salar. Shows what dangers there
are, as any jeep could easily fall into these holes. They also stopped at some basic holes in the
salt, put their arms in and rummaged around to find some lovely salt crystals
in lumps. We took a couple to take home,
but don’t know how they’ll survive in our damp climate. Worth a try though. 
Before hitting the main town of Uyuni, we drove around the
outskirts which were thoroughly miserable, partially completed or deserted
houses and rubbish strewn everywhere.
Not a place I would want to stay.
We visited the train cemetery, where the railway station was now in ruin
and all sorts of old steam trains and carriages now gently rust away. Used it as a playground, scrambling around in
the drivers compartments, playing ‘Casey Jones’.
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